Tuning of the Stabilization System
1 recurve
(1)general principles of setup
There are a few important points you should consider when first deciding to set up a bow.
Look At Your Form - First and foremost, take a step back and evaluate your form. 99% of the time, a shooter will gain more from technical or mental changes than from making changes to the tune of his bow.
Match Your Arrows To Your Distances - A weaker arrow typically shoots better at longer distances, while a stiff arrow shoots better at shorter distances. Keeping that in mind, when tuning for indoor season, your primary concern should be the tune at 20 yards/18 meters. If you are shooting outdoors, tune at the furthest comfortable distance, at least 30 meters.
Change the Form, Change the Tune - When an archer makes technical changes, this can also affect the tune of the arrows, especially if making large changes in form.
Expect to Need More Adjustments - After the bow is tuned and shooting well in practice, it might not be very forgiving in competition, especially under high pressure. Sometimes successful tuning requires trial and error, such as going to shoots and trying to find what works best.
Simulate Pressure Situations - Simulating pressure situations in practice helps to assess whether or not the bow will be forgiving in a competition. Try using an end timer, or simulate matches while shooting against your friends.
(2)Aligning Limbs and Basic Centershot
Aligning the Limbs:
The first thing to look at when setting up a bow is the limb alignment. Not only do the limbs need to be aligned to each other, but they should also be in line with the center of the riser.
Use Beiter Blocks - Use Beiter Limb Line Gauges on various points of the limbs as reference points to check alignment.
Backside Reference Point - A reference point on the backside of the riser for the center part of the bow is also needed. Some use the backside of the riser by using the limb bolt locks; others prefer the stabilizer. You might not be able to use the backside of the riser on a bow that uses limb bolt adjustment systems, because you are shifting the limbs left and right by moving the limb bolts. If the limb bolt is stationary, you can use the hole on the backside as a reference. If you are using the stabilizer as a reference point, make sure it is perfectly straight, and use a couple of different rods to make sure the reading is correct.
Use Stabilizer AND Riser - Sometimes bows are not assembled or milled properly and can have stabilizer alignment issues, so using both the stabilizer and riser as a reference point removes any doubt of proper alignment.
Use the Fewest Possible Contact Points - When using a stabilizer alone, there is only one contact point. With a stabilizer, quick disconnect, v-bar bracket and extension, there are 4 contact points. Any one of these can easily change the appearance of the stabilizer alignment.
Don't Hold Bow By The Limbs - Supporting the bow anywhere other then the limbs is a good idea. This will prevent twisting of the limbs, which changes the alignment.
Center the String - With the riser resting on a stable support, and the limbs free in the air, put the string in the center of the stabilizer and take a look at the Beiter blocks. In the picture below, the limb/stabilizer alignment is off.
How to Adjust - If the bow uses a moveable dovetail mount as the adjustment, move the dovetail towards the gap in the Beiter block (shown in red arrows on photos.) If the bow utilizes a limb bolt adjustment system, move the limb bolt in the opposite direction of the gap.
Align the Limbs - In this picture below, the limbs are aligned to each other, but they are off the centerline of the bow. Note that the stabilizer is angled off to the side. Using the same theory as above, move the limb adjustment system to get the limbs aligned to each other and to the centerline of the bow.
This bow has proper alignment: the limbs are straight, and the string is right down the middle of the stabilizer.
Center Shot Setting:
Now is a good time to look at a rough center shot setting.
For a right-handed shooter, if you are shooting barreled shafts like the Easton X10, put the arrow just a touch to the left side of the string.
If you are using parallel shafts like an Easton A/C/C or the X7 Eclipse, the arrow will be right down the center of the string.
(3)Setting Tiller and Brace Height
Setting Brace Height - Using a bow square, and measuring from the string to the center of the cushion plunger, set the brace height to the manufacturer's recommended setting for the LIMBS. The brace height is dictated for the proper performance and longevity of the limbs. Usually there is about a 3/4" range of adjustment.
Setting the Recurve Tiller - The tiller is the difference between the top and bottom limbs' distance from the string.
Use the Right Tool - Using a bow square on the base of the limb, measure at a 90 degree angle to the string. Do the same on the bottom.
Proper Recurve Tiller - There should be a slight difference in the measurements. Generally, the bottom limb measurement should be somewhere between 1/16" and 1/4" shorter than the top limb. Anything outside this range will produce unnecessary nock travel as the arrow is being delivered.
Personal Preference - Tiller settings are to some extent personal preference. The setting will affect the way pressure is felt on the fingers. Trial and error will help figure out what setting is best, allowing the shooter to maintain a proper hook on the string with their fingers without slipping, sliding or pinching.
It is NOT recommended to tune the tiller to help you hold still. (That will be covered under "Tuning of the Stabilization System." )
(4)Tuning of the Stabilization System
Stabilizer Function - Stabilizers are supposed to help hold the bow still, and minimize the impact of any mistakes that the shooter may make.
Stabilizer History - Prior to 2009, stabilizers were used mostly to take vibration out of the bow, not to help hold the bow still. People used weights on the end of rods for a specific reaction after the shot, not for a good holding pattern.
Modern Use of Stabilizers - Stabilizers are now used to help an archer hold more still on the target. This allows him to execute a confident shot, resulting in tighter groups down range. All of the weight in the rod itself has been moved out to the end of the bar to give more effective leverage against the shooter, further strengthening this effect.
Four Principles of Stabilizing
There are four simple principles to help adjust the stabilization system to make your aiming pattern as tight as possible.
Front to Back Balance
Left to Right Balance
Rod Length
Overall System Mass Weight
Front to Back Balance should be tuned first. This is very simple. If the sight/bow wants to dip down when executing a shot, there is too much weight out on the long rod, or too little weight on the side rods. Inversely, if the bow wants to rise when executing a shot, there is not enough weight on the front, or too much weight on the back. Once the sight picture has the bow holding decently up and down, move on to the next step.
Right to Left Balance tuning works just like the front to back tuning. If the bow wants to move right on execution, take weight from the right sidebar and move it left. If the bow moves left on execution, take weight from the left sidebar and move it right.
Rod Length is important. The longer the rod, the more leverage the weight on the end has against the bow. For example, a 16" rod with 8 ounces on it has 60% more leverage then a 10" bar with the same weight on it. Too long a rod may cause the aiming pattern to become unreliable.
The Overall Mass Weight of the system matters a great deal. In general, more weight makes for a steadier bow; however, too much mass weight on the bow can also increase the variability of the aiming pattern. If there are issues that cannot be resolved with the above principles, try taking a couple of ounces of weight off the bars.
Changing the Mass Weight - If a different mass weight is desired, add or subtract weight in the same ratio that it is already on the bars.
Example: If you have 6 ounces on the stabilizer and 6 on each v-bar, that's a 2:1 ratio, back to front. To keep the same ratio, adding 3 ounces to the front rod requires adding 6 ounces total to the side rods.
Left to right balance must also be taken into consideration. If there is an uneven split on the side rods, then any new weight must be distributed in the same ratio.
Example: Suppose you have a 2:1 back to front ratio (6 ounces on the front and 12 ounces in the back); and your left to right ratio is also 2:1, with 8 ounces on the left v-bar and 4 on the right. In this situation, if you add 3 ounces to the front and 6 ounces to the back,then those back 6 ounces need to be distributed, left to right, in the same fashion, mirroring your current 2:1 left to right ratio. So you would put 4 of the 6 ounces on the left, and the remaining 2 ounces on the right, keeping the same ratio left to right.
This is not an exact system due to the angles of the v-bar bracket, but this will put you close to the same holding pattern.
Fine Tuning of the bow's holding pattern comes next.
Aluminum Weights - Using a weight of less than one ounce is one way to tune the holding pattern more finely.
Double Adjustable V-Bar Bracket - Another fine-tuning method uses a double adjustable v-bar bracket, with which super-fine adjustments can be made to the holding pattern
Front to Back -The v-bars help balance out the long rod and act as a lever arm against it. The specific angle of the rod is not important, but the straight line distance in a given axis is what will finely tune the balance. The picture below shows that when you drop the v-bar down, it effectively shortens the lever arm against the front rod. Shortening this lever arm basically moves the weight forward and will make the bow want to dip more. This type of adjustment is what will really make a difference between a decent holding pattern and a perfect one.
As you can see in the picture below, the further down the side rod is placed, the further the weights are moved towards the front of the bow.
Left to Right - The same principle is also true in a left to right axis of planes. If the bow moves right on execution, slightly move the left v-bar left or the right v-bar left. This will also affect the front to rear balance slightly, but is arguably negligible.
Using an Extension - Deciding whether or not to use an extension also is a question of stabilization. With no extension, the control point of the stabilization system (the bow grip) moves closer to the central point of the weights. However, a bow without an extension has a slightly different holding pattern even when finely tuned, compared to a setup with an extension.
All of these adjustments need to be made prior to getting a final tune. As you change balance points, this will affect how the bow tunes, especially the nocking point height.
经过百度翻译
稳定系统的调谐
1反曲弓
(1)设置的一般原则
有几个重要的点时你应该考虑的第一个决定设立一个弓。
看看你的形式-首先，退后一步，评估你的形式。99%的时候，一个射手将获得更多的技术或心理的变化比更改他的弓曲。
匹配你的箭头，你的距离通常较弱的箭射得更长的距离，而僵硬的箭射得在短距离。记住，当调整室内赛季，你最关心的应该是在20码的调/ 18米。如果你是在户外拍摄，在最舒适的距离调整，至少30米。
变化的形式，改变音调当射手进行了技术的变化，这也会影响到箭头的调整，特别是如果在形成大的变化。
后弓是调谐和射击在实践中需要更多的调整，它可能无法在竞争很宽容的，特别是在高压力。有时成功的调整需要试验和错误，如去芽，试图找到什么是最好的。
模拟压力的情况下，模拟实际压力的情况下，有助于评估是否弓将在竞争是宽容的。尝试使用结束计时器，或模拟比赛而对你的朋友射击。
(2)对四肢和基本centershot
对四肢：
首先要看在设置弓是下肢力线。不仅做了四肢需要对准对方，但是他们也应该在提升管的中心线。
使用市贝特尔块使用市贝特尔肢体线计对四肢各点作为参考点来检查校准。
背面的参考点-一个弓的中心部分在提升管的背面也需要参考点。一些使用立管的背面用肢体螺栓锁;有人喜欢稳定剂。您可能无法使用在提升管的背面上，用弓肢体螺栓调节系统，因为你正四肢左右移动肢体螺栓的权利。如果肢体螺栓固定，你可以使用孔在背面作为参考。如果你正在使用的稳定剂，作为一个参考点，确保它是笔直的，使用两个不同的杆，确保阅读是正确的。
使用的稳定剂和立管-有时是不正确的组装或碾磨弓和有稳定剂对齐的问题，所以使用稳定剂和立管作为一个参考点删除任何疑问的正确对齐。
用尽量少的接触点时使用的稳定剂的孤独，只有一个接触点。与稳定，快速断开，咁架和延伸，有4个接触点。他们中的任何一个都可以很容易地改变稳定器对准外观。
由四肢不持弓支弓以外的地方然后四肢是一个好主意。这将防止四肢扭曲，从而改变对齐。
中心与冒口放在一个稳定的支持字符串，和四肢在自由的空气中，把绳子在稳定剂的中心和在市贝特尔块一看。在下面的图片中，肢体/稳定剂对准了。
如何如果弓使用可移动的燕尾山作为调整调整，将燕尾朝市贝特尔块间隙(图中红色箭头的照片。)如果弓利用肢体螺栓调节系统，在该间隙的相反方向移动肢体螺栓。
对齐的四肢，在下面这张图片，四肢相互对齐，但他们的弓中线。请注意，稳定剂是直角的一边。使用相同的理论之上，移动肢体调节系统获得的四肢相互对齐和弓的中心线。
这把弓有适当的对齐方式：四肢都是直的，和字符串被降权的稳定剂中。
中心镜头设置：
现在是一个很好的时间去看一个粗糙中心镜头设置。
一个右撇子射手，如果你拍摄的桶装轴象伊斯顿X10，把箭刚一触到字符串的左边。
如果您使用的是平行的轴象伊斯顿A / C / C或X7 Eclipse，箭头会被降权的字符串的中心。
(3)设置的分蘖和支撑高度
用弓广场设置支撑高度，测量从字符串的缓冲柱塞的中心，设置支撑高度对制造商的推荐为肢体，设置。支撑高度决定四肢的合适的性能和寿命。通常有大约3 / 4“调整范围。
设置反曲弓分蘖的蘖的顶部和底部的四肢的距离从字符串之间的差异。
使用弓箭的肢体基地平方使用正确的工具，测量在90度角的字符串。在底部做同样的事。
适当的反曲弓分蘖-应该有细微差别的测量。一般来说，底部的肢体测量应在1 / 16“和1 / 4之间的“短于上面的肢体。在此范围之外的任何东西会产生不必要的诺克旅行箭被交付。
个人偏好分蘖设置一些个人喜好程度。该设置将影响压力是指这样的感觉。试验和错误，将有助于找出哪些设置是最好的射手，可以保持一个适当的在用手指勾弦无滑动，滑动或捏。
这是不建议调整分蘖，帮助你保持静止。(这将被包括在“调谐的稳定系统。”)
(4)稳定系统的调谐
稳定器功能稳定剂应该有助于保持弓，和减少任何错误，射手可能产生的影响。
稳定剂的历史前2009，稳定剂主要用于把振动的弓，不帮助保持船头仍然。人们用重棒结束后拍摄了一个特定的反应，而不是一个好的控股模式。
现代使用的稳定剂，稳定剂现在用来帮助射手持有更多的还是在目标。这让他执行一个自信的镜头，从而更紧密的群体范围。所有的重量在杆本身已经搬到了结束的酒吧提供更有效的杠杆对射手，进一步加强这种效果。
稳定的四个原则
有助调节稳定系统，使你的目标模式尽可能紧四个简单的原则。
前后平衡
从左到右的平衡
杆长度
整个系统的重量
前后平衡应调整第一。这是非常简单的。如果看见/弓想下来执行一个镜头时，有了长杆的重量太大，或者太小的重量在侧杆。相反，如果弓想站起来执行一个镜头时，没有在前面的足够的重量，或太多的重量在后面。一旦瞄准图像具有持弓体面的向上和向下，进入下一步。
左权平衡调整工作就像前后调整。如果弓想立刻执行，从右边栏以重量和移动它离开。如果弓左上执行的动作，从侧边栏以重量和移动它的权利。
杆的长度是重要的。长杆，杠杆的一端与弓更重。例如，一个16杆，8盎司，它有60%更多的杠杆，然后一个10”酒吧与它相同的重量。太长的杆可能会导致目标模式变得不可靠。
系统的整体重量的影响很大。在一般情况下，更多的重量，使一个稳定的弓;然而，太多的重量在弓也可以增加目标模式的变化。如果有问题，不能与上述原则解决，尝试以几盎司的重量从酒吧。
改变重量-如果一个不同的质量要求，加上或减去的重量在同一比，它已经在酒吧。
例如：如果你有6盎司的稳定剂和6各V-bar，那是2:1的比率，回到前面。保持同样的比例，加入3盎司的前杆需要添加6盎司总侧杆。
从左到右的平衡还必须考虑。如果有在侧杆上不均匀的分裂，那么任何新的重量必须分布在相同的比例。
例如：假设你有一个2:1的正反比(6盎司和12盎司的前面，在后面);和你的左到右的比例也为2:1，在左咁8盎司和4在右边。在这种情况下，如果你加3盎司和6盎司的前面到后面，然后后面的6盎司需要分布式的，从左到右，以同样的方式，反映了当前2:1左右比。所以你要把4的6盎司的左边，而剩下的2盎司的右边，保持相同的比例从左到右。
这是不是由于V-bar支架的角度精确的系统，但这将使你接近相同的控股模式。
好的弓的控股模式调整接下来。
铝的重量-重量少于一盎司是调整的控股模式更精细的方法之一。
双调V-bar支架-另一个微调方法使用一个双调V-bar支架，与超精细的调整，可以使控股模式
前后的v-bars帮助平衡的长杆，作为对它的杠杆臂。杆的角度是不重要的，但在一个给定的轴的直线距离是什么将微调平衡。下面的图片显示，当你放下V-bar下来，它有效地缩短了杠杆臂与前杆。缩短这个杠杆臂基本移动重量并将弓要更加。这种调整是什么真的会使一个体面的控股模式和一个完美的之间的差异。
正如你可以看到下面的图片，进一步向下侧杆放置，进一步的重量移向船头前面。
从左到右-同样的原则在从左到右轴也是真实的飞机。如果弓动作正确执行，稍微移动左咁咁左左或右。这也会影响前后平衡点，但可以说是微不足道的。
使用扩展决定是否使用一个扩展的稳定也是一个问题。没有扩展，稳定系统的控制点(弓握)越来越接近的权重的中心点。然而，弓没有延伸有一个稍微不同的控股模式即使微调，相比一个扩展安装程序。
所有这些调整需要得到最后的调整之前。当你改变平衡点，这将如何影响弓的曲调，尤其是箭扣高度。
