(6)Group Tuning

　　After the basic tuning is done, move on to fine tuning at distance. Generally you should do the fine tuning at the distance at which elimination rounds are shot. You'll begin with Left to Right tuning.

　　Left to Right Tuning - Begin by shooting at least two ends, then measuring the left to right group size.

　　Make note of these measurements. If the two ends shot are relatively close to the same spread left and right, make a change to the bow.

　　Start by changing the plunger three clicks or just over a 1/4 turn in plunger tension, in either direction. (The direction does not matter - yet.)

　　After making these adjustments to the plunger and shooting more, an immediate difference in the way the groups look should become apparent. If the groups open up, then the adjustment made was the wrong direction, so put the 3 clicks back on the plunger to get back to the stock setting and then go three more past that.

　　Shoot the same number of arrows every end, and continue to note your left to right spreads. Once that "sweet spot" is reached where the group size doesn't get any smaller left and right, that's the optimum spot for plunger tension and spine relation of the arrow.

　　As you approach this "sweet spot," changes in grouping will become less drastic - your group width will begin to plateau. When this happens, stop. If more clicks were added or subtracted past that point, the left and right grouping would begin to open up again.

　　Up and Down Tuning - The next step is to adjust the up and down location of the arrow to get the up and down group size to a minimum.

　　When you start to make these changes, moving the arrow rest is typically easier then moving the nocking point, if you have an adjustable arrow rest.

　　If you only have the last 1/3rd of the top or bottom portion on the plunger tip left to move, measure how much to move the nocking point to get it adjusted so as to have the arrow now again in the middle of the plunger.

　　Make adjustments in very small increments until that plateau shows up again, and that's the optimum placement for the nocking point.

　　Tuning Tips:

　　When moving the plunger, sometimes the up and down group gets worse and vice versa, so go back and forth a couple of times to get a concentric group that is the best it can be.

　　Once this fine-tuning is done, the arrow flight might begin to get worse. This is normal. Some may argue that a poor arrow flight will have more wind drift, but this is negligible.

　　(7)Changes to the Bow and their Effects on Tune

　　This section is a compilation of tips and tricks that will allow a shooter to use critical thinking to make the right decision when making adjustments to the bow.

　　When I make changes in how my bow is tuned (stiff/weak), I make the adjustments in the following order:

　　Arrow Spine

　　Bow Weight

　　Arrow Length

　　Point Weight

　　Brace Height

　　Plunger Tension*

　　I find the easiest adjustment to make is bow weight, within reason.

　　*I do not like to adjust plunger tension, as I have found that the majority of my bows shoot best within a certain range of tension.

　　Ways to Make Arrows Act Weaker:

　　Increase bow weight

　　Increase point weight

　　Increase arrow length

　　Increase brace height

　　Decrease plunger tension

　　Increase strand count in string*

　　Use large groove nocks and a larger center serving

　　Use a longer bow (72" vs. 70")

　　Ways to Make Arrows Act Stiffer:

　　Decrease bow weight

　　Decrease point weight

　　Decrease arrow length

　　Decrease brace height

　　Increase plunger tension

　　Decrease strand count in string*

　　Use small groove nocks and a smaller center serving

　　Use a shorter bow (68" vs. 70")

　　* Regarding Bowstring Strand Count - It is a common misconception that increasing the strand count will always make an arrow act stiffer. This is in fact true at very low strand counts (such as 10 strands of BCY-8125); however, that low a strand count is not recommended for forgiveness purposes. Generally, above 18 strands is where you will start noticing that an increase in strands will weaken the arrow.

　　Ways to Make a Bow More Forgiving:

　　Use a higher brace height

　　Use longer vanes

　　Use the longest bow possible

　　Compound:Target

　　(1)Initial Setup

　　Cam Alignment - Make sure top/bottom cam is straight to start.

　　Place an arrow flush against the non-module or cable return side of the BOTTOM cam, with the arrow point near the D-loop to verify alignment. A perfectly straight bottom cam alignment is not a "must," but it will determine how much top cam lean is needed.

　　Place arrow along the top cam on the non-module or cable return side to verify alignment. Add or subtract twists to ensure straight cam alignment from the start.

　　Tiller - Tiller is the distance from where the limb enters the pocket to the string at brace-height. Tiller is adjusted by loosening or tightening limb bolts until this distance is equal. Adjust tiller to EVEN.

　　Cam Timing - On a hybrid or dual cam, "timing" refers to when each cam hits the cable at full draw compared to the other. Always refer to your owner's manual for the manufacturer's optimal timing adjustment for maximum efficiency.

　　On a Hybrid Cam 1/2 system, if the top cam is hitting after the bottom cam, add twists to the Buss cable. Small adjustments will have a very minimal effect on draw length, poundage & let off.

　　On a Hybrid Cam 1/2 system, if the top cam is hitting too far ahead of the bottom cam, remove twists from the Buss cable. Small adjustments will have a very minimal effect on draw length, poundage & let off.

　　On a Binary Cam system, adjust cam timing by independently adjusting draw stops on cams, or independently adjusting each cable to desired timing.

　　On a 1 cam bow, cam timing will not have as dramatic an effect. Adjust the timing/cam rotation by adjusting the cable.

　　Adding twists to the Buss Cable will rotate the cam into the string, lengthening draw length, increasing let off and poundage.

　　Adding twists to the string will shorten draw length, decrease poundage and raise holding weight.

　　Poundage - Poundage is determined by adding or removing turns from each limb bolt equally, once the tiller is set.

　　Draw length - Standard AMO draw length is throat of the nock to the Berger hole plus 1 3/4". The preferred method is to add or subtract twists from the string once proper cam timing is achieved. The cables may also be used.

　　Adding twists to the string shortens draw length. This action may also decrease poundage slightly.

　　Untwisting the string increases draw length. This action may also increase poundage.

　　Adding twists to the Buss cable will increase draw length. This action may also increase poundage.

　　Untwisting the Buss cable will decrease draw length. This action may also decrease poundage.

　　Mount Arrow Rest - Mounting the arrow rest initially is very important to allow yourself the needed room for tuning, if necessary.

　　After installing the arrow rest, adjust it so the arrow is roughly intersecting the Berger hole.

　　Left-to-right initial adjustment should be set as close to the center of the bow as possible. Not all handles are centered on the riser, so line up the string from top to bottom and get it close to begin.

　　Mounting Sight - Mount your sight's hardware and ensure bolts are tight. Determining how far you want to place your scope from the bow requires that you consider several factors:

　　What size housing will you be using? 3D archers generally use a larger housing for a bigger field of view. Indoor and Target archers generally use a smaller housing.

　　What size peep will you need to match the housing? The farther away the scope housing is, the smaller the peep will need to be to match; the closer the housing, the bigger the peep will need to be.

　　What power lens will you be using, if any? The farther from the bow the lens is, the more magnified your target appears.

　　Leveling Sight - Sight leveling is very important because up- and down-hill shots will not hit where you're aiming if the 3rd axis adjustments are not correct. Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations when leveling your sight.

　　Some tools needed for sight leveling: 4ft carpenter level, small (6") level or third axis leveling device, bow vice and Allen wrenches.

　　To set your 2nd axis, place the bow in a secure bow vice, sitting upright.

　　Level the sight bar to the bow by holding a 4ft level from limb tip to limb tip (this represents the level of the bow) just below axles, and hold a small level on the sight bar. Loosen sight bar bolts and adjust the sight bar until the levels match; tighten bolts and recheck.

　　Setting the 2nd Axis - Now that the sight bar is level to your bow, you will set your 2nd axis. Using the long or short level placed against the bow, check how the bubble in the scope housing compares. Following manufacturer's procedures, make the necessary adjustments until the bubble in the housing is the same as the level against the bow. Once the scope housing matches the level against the bow and the elevation bar, the 2nd axis is set. Secure bolts and re-check.

　　Setting the 3rd Axis - Now that the second axis is level, you need to level the third axis. Attach a third axis leveling device to the sight rail, and run a plumb line from the ceiling to the ground. Load an arrow in the bow, come to full draw and simulate an extreme downhill shot about 5 feet from the string. Using the reference of the leveling device, make adjustments to the third axis adjustment on the sight until both the bubble on the sight and the leveling device read the same. The third axis is now set.

　　Warning: Make sure to draw the bow in a safe direction whenever an arrow is loaded.

　　Once the bubble against the bow and the bubble in the scope housing match in the downward shooting direction, follow the same process in an uphill shooting position.

　　Repeat As Needed: Depending on your sight and how it adjusts, you may need to repeat the previous two steps several times until you have your 3rd axis tuned for both up- and down-hill shots.

　　Install D-loop - Most archers shoot a D-loop approximately 3/4" long. Whether you install them yourself or have a shop do them, here are a few guidelines:

　　Start with a loop 3/4" long. This will give you room to tune, and keep the string far enough from your face to prevent unwanted contact.

　　When setting the D-loop during initial setup, set nock height approx. 1/8" high (unless you already know your preferred nock height.)

　　Install Peep - Determining the proper peep height and size is very important for consistency and accuracy. Here are a few tips for finding a good starting point for your peep height:

　　Adjust your sight housing approximately 2" above your arrow at rest. For Indoor or 3D archery, use 3".

　　With an arrow loaded, stand in front of a target and come to full draw. Settle into your anchor, and get as comfortable as you can with your release hand and head.

　　When you have settled in, look through the middle of your scope housing. At this point, have someone make a mark on the string where you think the peep will need to be as you look at the housing.

　　Let down and install a peep at the mark. ALWAYS secure peep for safety reasons!

　　Come to full draw again in front of bale, and verify peep is in line with scope housing. At this point you can adjust peep size to match housing.

　　Mount Stabilizer Hardware - Stabilizers have become an integral part of every archer's gear over the past few years. The stabilizers are only as good as the hardware they are mounted to. Whether you are mounting the hardware in the front, off the back or down low, be sure to follow these simple steps:

　　If you are mounting a Quick disconnect & V-bar bracket off the front of the bow, ensure that your bolt is long enough and will have a minimum of 3/8" threads into the bow.

　　If your bow has a large or protruding bushing, you might want to consider a washer that fits around the bushing to ensure more surface area contact, for a more secure and vibration-free attachment.

　　Always try to use the largest threaded hole your bow has for brackets and associated hardware. Otherwise, too much weight could easily rip the threads out of the bow.

经百度翻译

　　(6)组调谐

　　经过调整的基本完成，继续微调距离。通常你应该做微调在距离，消除轮射击。你会从左到右的调谐。

　　从左到右的调谐开始拍摄至少两端，然后测量左到右组的大小。

　　使这些测量的注意。如果两个端枪较接近同一传播左右，到船头做出改变。

　　开始通过改变柱塞在柱塞三点击或张力就在一1 / 4转，在任一方向。(方向不要紧呢。)

　　经过这些调整对柱塞和拍摄更多的，直接的方式的差异看应该成为明显的群体。如果组打开，然后调整进行了错误的方向，所以把3点击在柱塞回到股份设置然后去三的过去。

　　射来的箭相同数量的每一端，并继续记录你的左到右的传播。一旦“甜蜜点”在达到组的大小没有得到任何小左和右，这是柱塞张力和箭头的最佳位置的脊柱的关系。

　　当你接近这个“甜蜜点，“变化中的分组将变得不那么激烈的-你将开始高原组宽度。当这种情况发生时，停止。如果更多的点击添加或减去过去一点，左和右的组合也开始重新开放。

　　向上和向下调整-下一步是调整上下箭头的位置得到上下组尺寸最小。

　　当你开始做这些改变，移动箭头休息通常容易然后移动搭箭点，如果你有一个可调整的箭头休息。

　　如果你只有最后的1 /第三的顶部或底部的柱塞端部左移，衡量移动搭箭点得到调节，有箭头，现在又在柱塞中。

　　在非常小的增量调整直到高原又出现了，那就是箭扣的最佳位置。

　　反曲弓调整技巧：

　　当移动柱塞，有时上下组恶化，反之亦然，如此来回几次，得到一个同心的组，它可以是最好的。

　　一旦这个微调是做，箭飞行可能会恶化的。这是正常的。有些人可能认为，一个贫穷的箭头飞行将有更多的风漂移，但这是可以忽略不计。

　　(7) 弓和调整他们的变化的影响

　　这部分是一个编译的技巧和窍门，让射手用批判性思维作出正确的决定时作出调整，弓。

　　当我改变我的弓是调谐(硬/弱)，我在下面的命令做出调整：

　　箭刺

　　弓的重量

　　箭头长度

　　点重量

　　支撑高度

　　柱塞张力*

　　我发现最容易的调整是弓的重量，在合理的范围内。

　　我不喜欢调整柱塞的张力，当我发现我的弓大部分拍摄最好的一定范围内的张力。

　　制箭法较弱的方式：

　　增加弓重量

　　增加一点重量

　　箭头的长度增加

　　增加支撑高度

　　减少柱塞张力

　　字符串串数增加

　　使用大槽的凹槽和一个更大的服务中心

　　使用较长的弓(72“和70”)

　　制箭法更严厉的方式：

　　减少弓重量

　　减点体重

　　减少箭头长度

　　降低支撑高度

　　提高柱塞张力

　　减少字符串链数

　　用小槽的凹槽和一个较小的中心服务

　　使用短弓(68“和70”)

　　*对于弓弦链数，增加链数都将使箭法较硬的它是一种常见的误解。这实际上是真的在非常低的链数(如10股bcy-8125);然而，较低的链数是不推荐用于宽恕的目的。一般而言，18股以上的，你就会注意到这股的增加会削弱箭。

　　做一个弓更宽容的方式：

　　使用较高的支撑高度

　　使用更长的叶片

　　使用时间最长的弓可能

　　目标化合物：

　　(1)初始设置

　　凸轮定位-确保顶部/底部凸轮是直的开始。

　　对非模块或底侧索回凸轮箭冲洗，与附近的D-loop箭头来验证校准。一条笔直的底部凸轮定位并不是一个“必须，但它将确定有多少顶凸轮倾斜是必要的。

　　放箭沿顶部凸轮上的非模块故障或电缆回归方验证校准。添加或减去曲折保证直线凸轮定位从一开始。

　　分蘖，分蘖是来自哪里的肢体进入口袋的字符串在支撑高度的距离。分蘖是通过松开或拧紧螺栓直到这个距离调整肢体是平等的。调节分蘖，甚至。

　　凸轮-混合或双凸轮，“时间”是指当每个凸轮打电缆充分借鉴相比其他。通常是指为最高的效率生产厂家的最佳时机调整你的车主手册。

　　在混合的凸轮1 / 2系统，如果顶触底后凸轮是凸轮，添加的曲折的总线电缆。小的调整，都将对绘制的长度非常小的影响，手续费和放过。

　　在混合的凸轮1 / 2系统，如果顶凸轮是打得太远，底部凸轮，从巴斯电缆拆下曲折。小的调整，都将对绘制的长度非常小的影响，手续费和放过。

　　在一个二进制的CAM系统，通过独立地调整拉停在凸轮调整凸轮定时，或独立调节每个电缆所需的时间。

　　在1个凸轮，凸轮的时间不会有戏剧性的效果。调整正时凸轮的旋转调整电缆。

　　添加的曲折的总线电缆将转动凸轮为字符串长度增加，延长抽放和手续费。

　　添加的曲折的字符串将缩短绘制的长度，减少手续费和提高持有量。

　　手续费，手续费是通过添加或从每个肢体螺栓拆卸转向同样确定，一旦设置投射。

　　绘制长度标准的AMO画长度的诺克的伯杰孔加1的3 / 4的喉咙”。首选的方法是添加或减去曲折从字符串一旦达到适当的凸轮定时。电缆，也可以使用。

　　添加的曲折的字符串长度缩短绘制。这一行动可能会减少手续费稍。

　　退捻增加字符串绘制长度。这一行动也可能会增加手续费。

　　添加曲折巴斯电缆将增加拉伸长度。这一行动也可能会增加手续费。

　　解缆巴斯电缆将下降引起的长度。这一行动可能会减少手续费。

　　安装箭台安装箭台最初是让你自己需要的房间调整非常重要，如果必要的话。

　　安装箭头的休息后，调整它的箭头是大致相交的伯杰黑洞。

　　从左到右的初始调整应设置为靠近船头的尽可能的中心。不是所有的处理都是集中在冒口，所以排队上串下得到它的接近。

　　安装的景象——安装你的视线的硬件保证螺栓紧。确定多远你想从船头的地方你的范围，需要考虑的几个因素：

　　你会用什么尺寸的住房?3D射箭一般使用一个较大的住房来看一个更大的领域。室内目标者通常都使用一个较小的房屋。

　　你需要什么尺寸的窥视将匹配的住房?更远范围的住房是，较小的窥视需要匹配;紧密的住房，更大的窥视需要。

　　你会用什么力量的镜头，如果任何?离船头的镜头，更放大你的目标出现。

　　水准测量视线视线水平是非常重要的，上下坡球不会撞到你的目标如果第三轴调整不正确。始终遵循制造商的建议时，平你的视线。

　　视力水准需要一些工具：4英尺的木匠的水平，小(6“)的水平轴和第三轴整平装置，弓副和艾伦扳手。

　　设置您的第二轴，将弓在一个安全的弓钳，笔直地坐着。

　　通过举办4水平从肢体肢体末端尖看到酒吧弓水平(这是弓的水平)低于轴，并且在视觉酒吧举行一个小型的水平。松开螺栓和调整表尺瞄准杆直到水平相匹配;拧紧螺栓，复查。

　　设置第二个轴-现在，视线杆水平你的弓，你将你的第二轴。使用长或短的水平放置的弓，检查范围内的住房泡沫的比较。按照制造商的程序，做出必要的调整，直到在房地产泡沫对弓的水平相同。一旦范围的住房与弓和升降杆的水平，第二轴设定。安全螺栓和重新检查。

　　设置第三个轴，第二轴是水平的，你需要等级第三轴。附三分之一轴整平装置的视线的轨道，并运行一个垂直线从天花板到地面。负荷在弓上的箭，来充分利用和模拟极端下坡球从5英尺高的字符串。使用调平装置的参考，使调整在视力第三轴调整直到泡沫的视线和找平装置读取相同。现在是第三轴。

　　警告：确保在一个安全的方向拉弓的箭加载时。

　　一旦对弓和向下的射击方向的范围的住房泡沫的泡沫的比赛，在一场艰苦的拍摄位置，遵循相同的过程。

　　根据需要重复：这取决于你的视线和如何调整，你可能需要重复几次，前两个步骤，直到你有你的第三轴调整为上、下山的镜头。

　　安装控制大多数弓箭手射D-loop区约3 / 4“长。你是否安装他们自己或有个店做，这里有一些指导方针：

　　开始一个循环3 / 4“长。这会给你的房间来调整，并保持字符串从你的脸足够远，以避免不必要的接触。

　　当设定D-loop在初始设置，设置箭扣高度约1 / 8“高(除非你已经知道你的首选诺克的高度。)

　　安装露确定适当的PEEP高度和大小是非常重要的一致性和准确性。这里是你找到一个很好的出发点PEEP高度的一些提示：

　　调整你的眼前房约2“以上你的箭在休息。室内或3D射箭，使用3“。

　　箭载，站在前面的目标，来充分利用。进入你的锚，并获得舒适，你可以用你的手和头的释放。

　　当你坐下来，看看你的房屋中间范围。在这一点上，有人把一个标记的字符串在你认为窥视需要你看的房屋。

　　放下并安装在马克窥视。确保安全的原因窥视!

　　来充分利用前面又捆，并验证PEEP是住房线范围。在这一点上你可以调整PEEP规模相匹配的房屋。

　　安装稳定器硬件稳定剂已成为在过去的几年中的每一个弓箭手的齿轮的一个组成部分。稳定剂，只为他们安装的硬件。无论你是安装在前面的硬件，背上或向下低，一定要遵循这些简单的步骤：

　　如果你安装一个快速断开和V-bar支架从船头的前，确保你的螺栓是足够长的时间，将有一个最低的3 / 8“线程弓。

　　如果你的弓有一个大的或突出的衬套，你可能要考虑一个垫圈套在套管保证更多的接触面积，更为安全和自由振动的附件。

　　总是使用最大的螺纹孔，你的弓有支架及相关硬件。否则，太多的重量可以轻松地把线程的弓。